In Stock, 25+ AvailableThis is an Genuine Manufacturer Authorized replacement part used on variety of power tools. Ball bearings are used to reduce friction between rotating parts. The balls or rollers take the load and spin, distributing the weight evenly while the minimal contact area of the ball reduces friction. This reduces wear on the tool and allows it to run smoothly. Bearings experience constant wear when the tool is in operation from pressure, heat, vibration and friction.
Because of this, many Bearings need periodic maintenance or replacement. In Stock, 21 AvailableGenuine Manufacturer Sourced replacement part used on a variety of Power Tools. This part is made out of Metal and it is sold individually. Ball bearings are used to reduce friction between rotating parts. The balls or rollers take the load and spin, distributing the weight evenly while the minimal contact area of the ball reduces friction. This reduces wear on the tool and allows it to run smoothly.
Bearings experience constant wear when the tool is in operation from pressure, heat, vibration and friction. Because of this, many Bearings need periodic maintenance or replacement. In Stock, 25+ AvailableThis is an Genuine Manufacturer Authorized replacement part used on variety of power tools. Ball bearings are used to reduce friction between rotating parts. The balls or rollers take the load and spin, distributing the weight evenly while the minimal contact area of the ball reduces friction.
This reduces wear on the tool and allows it to run smoothly. Bearings experience constant wear when the tool is in operation from pressure, heat, vibration and friction. Because of this, many Bearings need periodic maintenance or replacement. In Stock, 21 AvailableGenuine Manufacturer Sourced replacement part used on a variety of Power Tools. This part is made out of Metal and it is sold individually. Ball bearings are used to reduce friction between rotating parts.
The balls or rollers take the load and spin, distributing the weight evenly while the minimal contact area of the ball reduces friction. This reduces wear on the tool and allows it to run smoothly.
Bearings experience constant wear when the tool is in operation from pressure, heat, vibration and friction. Because of this, many Bearings need periodic maintenance or replacement.
Hello!My workshop is slowly expanding and just recently it gained a drill press! I'm now investigating the usefulness of it and I've looked into the possibilities of milling with it.A little research left me with 'don't do it' but this advice seemed to be concerning larger drill presses and more heavy milling.My drill press is of German or Swiss make and uses collets and a drawbar instead of a chuck. I have not yet inspected the bearings but I wouldn't have much of a reference as to if they were suitable for milling in any case. The entire thing is really heavy for its size and seems to be really sturdy.i don't have any pictures of it at the moment, I will attach those later on, but here is a picture of a machine that is of very similar build.
This one seems to have been used for milling considering the attached lathe.do you guys think, should I use it for milling? Trying to optimize and not get superfluous equipment.Best/Karl. Yes, the lateral force was what I understood to be the main issue as well, apart from drill presses not being equipped with cross slides as a standard.Not sure where the 1 inch measurement would be on the bit, is it the cutting diameter you are referring to or the stem? The collet that was mounted in the spindle when I got the drill press takes bits with a stem of 6mm in diameter.I think the machine would be classified as a micro drill press so any heavier work is out of the question. My plan for its use is recessing wristwatch plates and cutting gears and pinions, nothing more heavy in nature. Karl I have a small shop and not much room for any more equipment.
I have a Unimat for light milling and also a milling attachment for my Atlas 618. However I wanted something a bit more convenient and handle larger cutters.I have a very heavy duty bench mounted JET 13R drill press made in Japan and I probably got it around mid 70's. I too read all about a drill press is not a mill and understood why. However I decided to try. First thing I did is put a ground test rod in the chuck and with a dial indicator looked for any deflection as I tried to push the spindle back and forth. Next I measured the runout 1' from the chuck jaws.
It was less than 0.001' total runout. With that in mind I purchased an x-y table for about $130, modified the down feed so that it would advance and lock.I have been using it for 3 years now with cutters up to 15 mm in aluminum and brass. I have milled some steel but very slow going. Every January I check the run out, and still under 0.001'. I often use straight fissure carbide dental burrs for cutting gear teeth etc without issue.I have never seen the machine that you posted before.David.
Yes, the lateral force was what I understood to be the main issue as well, apart from drill presses not being equipped with cross slides as a standard.Not sure where the 1 inch measurement would be on the bit, is it the cutting diameter you are referring to or the stem? The collet that was mounted in the spindle when I got the drill press takes bits with a stem of 6mm in diameter.I think the machine would be classified as a micro drill press so any heavier work is out of the question. My plan for its use is recessing wristwatch plates and cutting gears and pinions, nothing more heavy in nature. Click to expand.KarlPersonally, in situations like this I normally ask myself not what can be done, but what is practical.One can do just about anything as long as you spend enough time, effort and many many attempts.
It also helps if you are willing to except the best of many attempt`s that you are still not happy with.The work you are contemplating requires micrometer control of both the work piece and the cutting tool. From what I can see in the photo supplied is not encouraging.Normally, this type work is done on a specific purpose machine or a versatile quality Milling machine of appropriate size.This evaluation could of course change when I see photos of the actual machine.Jerry Kieffer.
Thank you David and Jerry, you both make good points.The issue of a accurate and big enough cross slide is becoming more and more apparent for me. I'm thinking about getting a milling attachement for my 6mm Lorch & Schmidt watchmakers lathe as well as a complement to the drill press and potential milling operations. I already have a cross slide from the same maker but I've been looking at a Taig vertical slide and then getting a spindle separately. I've also found some pretty cheap chinese milling attachments with spindle included that I've seen discussed here before, with varying opinions applied.I will update with pictures of my actual drill press in the coming few days! Thank you for your input!/Karl. Thank you David and Jerry, you both make good points.The issue of a accurate and big enough cross slide is becoming more and more apparent for me.
I'm thinking about getting a milling attachement for my 6mm Lorch & Schmidt watchmakers lathe as well as a complement to the drill press and potential milling operations. I already have a cross slide from the same maker but I've been looking at a Taig vertical slide and then getting a spindle separately. I've also found some pretty cheap chinese milling attachments with spindle included that I've seen discussed here before, with varying opinions applied.I will update with pictures of my actual drill press in the coming few days! Thank you for your input!/Karl.
Click to expand.KarlAgain, the work you are contemplating requires proper equipment capable of doing what is needed to be done in an efficient manner. Topics such as this will of course generate many many opinions, however only demonstrations will separate fact from fiction especially when considering Chinese tools. If finances are a concern, I would strongly suggest satisfactory demonstrations before parting with a single cent. While this will of course be a pain in the Butt, I only wished someone would have hit me over my thick head with it when I started out.jerry Kieffer. Click to expand.KarlMachining watch parts is one of those things that must be experienced to be understood.While there is no right or wrong way of doing things if the result is as desired, there are methods that are far less efficient than others.In the hands of a highly experienced person, a watchmakers lathe is a highly efficient method of fitting watch parts. However, stacking attachments to make parts can lead to many issues not to mention jack shafts and flopping belts.
In actual use, if your first thought is not 'there has to be a better way' you may be in over your head.The most efficient and proven methods are those of manufacturers where the they use specific machine tools for each part.For most in a small shop this is not practical. However, the same machine tool procedures can be utilized with a Versatile milling machine that offers the same hand wheel control in manual mode for one off parts. Thank you for a very extensive answer Jerry!
Really nice work on the escape wheel as well.I thought the process on milling flycutters for wheels was vaguely familiar and then I remembered that you gave me feedback on a similar note several months ago.What I'm doing now is mainly research, I need to figure out the most cost effective way for me to furbish a workshop allowing me to get some machining practice and develop the skills necessary to create my own movement from scratch. It is a long term project but I want to be smart about it.
The drill press was bought by my father for both him and me so it wasn't really a planned investment on my part. If it would be possible to mill on it, that would of course be a bonus (pictures are still pending, sorry, the drill is at my parents house).When it comes to manufacturing and cutting wheels, I've been studying the youtube clips uploaded by Roger Smith. In his wheel cutting series, he's using a separate milling attachment for a lathe and then using the lathe headstock as a dividing head. His equipment is of course of utmost quality, Shaublin lathe size larger among other things, so it might not be a valid comparison as to what I'm contemplating milling wise (lathe attachment or milling machine and dividing head).The milling machine in your escapement wheel thread, what make and model is that?The cost of a machine is an issue for me as I am a student and not one of horology at that (other than in my spare time).
The size is also of some concern, I have limited space to use as a workshop. I've been looking at the Taig micro mill as well as some machines made by Proxxon. Their MF70 looked interesting as first glance but has a minimum RPM of 5000 and a maximum collet size of 3mm so it renders it sort of useless in terms of flycutting. Their FF 230 seems to be a bit more versatile but is higher in price that the Taig one (manual).Hopefully I will be back with the pictures later today!/Karl. Thank you David! Silly me, I tried searching for it but I must have switched the names around.Turns out it is manufactured by a dental company! Probably intended for use on implants and prostethics and such.The link above seems to be a hobbyist page though so hopefully it will have some capabilities with metals as well.I'll try to equip it with a Proxxon XY table provided I can get the fixtures to line up.
Jet Drill Press Manual
I'll be back with updates!Thank you for your time and help! Much appreciated!Best/Karl. And so, update at last!I took the mill/drill apart a little while back and disassembled, cleaned and regreased everything apart from the actual spindle bearings, it runs smoothly as it is. Turns out, for it's size, this thing is really sturdy. The housing is machined 1/2 inch steel plates all around.
The spindle is also really sturdy although it takes collets of 1/6' which is a bit on the smaller end.I'm trying to find a collet for it that will take 1/8' tools but no luck so far. The collets take a drawbar with an external thread of 1/8'. The external thread system seems to be present amongst other milling machine manufacturers but the size in this case is much smaller than I've been able to find so far.Does anyone know where I might find such a collet?I've contacted Schick Dental, the company that made the ones that came with the mill but have not heard back from them yet.There is currently an adapter that increases the tool holding capacity to 1/8' but it makes flex in the system unworkable.Please disregard the dial on the micrometer, it's not really working. Measurements in mm.